Walking

I’ve been fascinated by Charles Dickens for a long time, and two things always stand out most: that wherever he travelled, whatever tourism wonders he took in, he always sought out the local prison; and that he was an inveterate walker, often taking in 20 miles a day of the London streets. I imagine that without such extreme walking he would have found it difficult to write his long intricately woven tales, that that very act of putting one foot in front of another over and over was a crucial part of his composition process.
He’s not alone: there are countless others, but Wordsworth in particular immediately springs to mind. Many of us associate him with his long jaunts around the Lakes District in England, yet these were nothing compared to the walks he took across Europe before he settled into his poetic career. He set off on foot across Revolutionary France, covering over 1,000 miles. More recently I’ve been reading about Werner Herzog: for him walking is akin to spirituality (I imagine this is true of many walkers. I particularly love the “My Cat Jeoffry” section of Christopher Smart’s Jubilate Agno, in which he suggests that every cat-like activity of his beloved pet is an act of praise, a prayer, because Jeoffry so perfectly performs his cat-ness; I imagine in many ways that walking is likewise a perfect performance of human-ness.) At 14 Herzog took off on foot from his home in Germany, wanting to go to Albania. He wasn’t able to enter the country, then closed to outsiders, but he walked its border to the Adriatic Sea. Imagine! In an interview he describes the application for the only kind of film school he would consider running:
…you would only be allowed to fill out an application form after you had travelled alone on foot, let’s say from Madrid to Kiev, a distance of about 5,000 kilometres. While walking, write. Write about your experiences and give me your notebooks. I would be able to tell who had really walked the distance and who had not. While you are walking you would learn much more about filmmaking than if you were in a classroom.
I realised, reading this, that it’s been a while since I deliberately set out for the act of walking itself, rather than to explore a particular place or get to a particular destination. Alongside reading these interviews with the inimitable (an adjective often applied to Dickens, but just as deserved by the German filmmaker…) Herzog, I’ve been revisiting one of my favourite contemporary nature writers, Craig Childs. No one can quite convey the power of the deserts of the Colorado River Basin as Childs can, and I am in awe of his knowledge of secret water holds, tinajas, kiss tanks scattered through the desert. As a reader, I am frequently stirred to action by the work I read, and when Childs and Herzog collided on my bedside table I knew that I must take notice.
I’m starting small: first just a 5 kilometre wander around the suburb, then an 8 kilometre saunter along the Yarra River (Sydney-siders will forgive their City Poet for visiting her parents for Christmas in Melbourne), and I’m realising both that I haven’t wandered like this for some time. Soon there will be more walks, different settings, hopefully longer. I suppose I must remember to keep reading the work of the walkers, or my focus on walking will slip as my highly suggestible mind becomes preoccupied with, say, tapestry weaving or the best uses of sorrel in cooking, or the cultivation of native peppermint. And when these new preoccupations come, I want to follow them too; but not at the expense of walking.
I’ve realised that there, in one regard, walkers come in two types: those whose minds must empty of their own thoughts as they are drawn again and again to their surrounds, and those who sink into meditation such that the world can all but disappear. I suppose there is a third kind: the thinkers who try to drag themselves back to the present moment. Because I am one of these third kind, falling into a cadence of thought and foot, but then realising my cadence is set and re-awakening, slowing, looking around to see where my thought has carried me. I nearly always come back to the moment when I see desire lines tantalisingly unwinding from the main path. I always want to follow desire lines.
On my walk sentences formed, thoughts on pieces I have to write for others and thoughts on poems I want to write for myself. I’m always conflicted about whether to get my notebook and pen out at the moment these ideas arise. In the end, I wore them in and then as I sat at the Fairfield Boathouse, watching over the ducks, I scribbled some notes to myself. Because walking, like cooking Texas Chili, is another form of long-simmer, and sentences tumbled over the rhythm of footsteps become worn in over the course of kilometres.
Already I am trying to decide on the next direction I will wander, and wondering what words will unlock themselves in my toes.